Musings of a Solo Diner: Kann (Portland, OR)
Because I'm no longer giving all my words to Instagram!
I'd run into Chef Gregory Gourdet and his companions on my way to the restroom earlier this summer at the Chef and Restaurant Ceremony for the James Beard Awards, and stopped to say hello and congratulate him on all the success of Kann. Two James Beard Awards in 2 years is no small feat, and it was at that moment I decided that flying up to Portland to check it out for myself was a good idea.
It turned out to be a really good idea.
Much like my experience last year at Tatiana, Kann is occasion dining, partly because of the smug satisfaction of having secured a reservation (thank Resy Global Dining Access for that!). A brick building situated on the corner of a semi-residential block, there's no flashy signage or fanfare; not even as much as a shingle hanging. Just a simple tent board with a name and an emblem...and a preceding reputation I was about to experience for myself.
Even the process of entering the space suggests that the focus here is on food and experience, versus folks marching through a grand front door snaking through tables to get to theirs. Patrons enter through a non-descript bright blue foyer to check in, and the door just beyond that gives way to a dining room simply appointed in neutrals, modest greenery, and sparse artwork. The menu is the star. And far from the merriment of awards weekend, Gregory Gourdet is a chef like many others; plating, serving, meeting, greeting, and overseeing the flurry of tickets streaming into the bustling kitchen.
Two James Beard Awards in 2 years could easily make you rely on the culinary fandom of it all, and yes, his celebrity in the industry is apparent, but Kann is instead relying on what's coming out of the kitchen, and for good reason. Gourdet's menu of modern Haitian food was well worth the flight and hotel accommodations, and my wallet balance on the InKind app meant this would be a limitless night...my favorite kind!
Shortly after being seated, I got the feeling this wouldn't be an occasion where I was taking lots of photos, and I didn't need to. From my perfectly placed perch at the chef's counter, I found visual confirmation of the acclaim...a buzzing kitchen of individual people in sleek, stylish, leather harness-accented aprons no less, moving in organized unison.
I know, I know...get to the food!
When it comes to dining, I'm an experience girl, ok?? Here's what I had:
Plantain Brioche Buns, which were fluffy, airy, and moist.
Griyo Twice Cooked Pork...I picked up my knife to cut...why?? It was fork tender. I'm used to this dish being fried and almost crispy, so this was a pleasant surprise. I treated it like nachos, building perfect bites of tostones topped with avocado, a forkful of the meat, and a few strands of the spicy Pikliz....heavenly.
Salade Russe introduced beets into potato salad. I know, I thought the same (“How did you get here? Nobody’s supposed to be here?”). I was wrong. It was fantastic.
The Peanut Creamed Greens were probably one of the more unique preparations I've had and was 1 of 3 standouts for me that night. I've heard of greens simmered in coconut milk in Cape Verdean cooking, but the peanuts and light sweetness from the spiced tomatoes went a long way here.
Cane Syrup BBQ Chicken…I was almost ready to bust by this point but dessert was up next and would not be denied. I boxed most of this up, Instacarted plastic to-go containers to my hotel, and took it on the hour long flight with me back to Oakland. It ate deliciously even as transported leftovers.
Which brings me to the Baked Haiti, a dessert I still think of at least twice a week. Little white puffs carried into the kitchen on trays to be individually hand torched. The exterior was everything you've ever loved about the top layer of baked banana pudding or toasted marshmallows, and inside was a coconut sponge cake with Bavarian cream, sitting atop of a pineapple reduction sauce, with a tiny spot of micro basil. I was left in culinary speechlessness.
Alas, it was just before 11p, and I was the last of the chef's counter diners. This was partially because I turned this into a tasting menu and was now full enough to literally roll to the door.
It was my last night in PDX, and I returned to Oakland with a full belly and a full heart. The accolades are well deserved, indeed.
Kahja Elliott is a digital creator, food enthusiast/traveler, and podcaster in Oakland, CA.